Author Topic: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.  (Read 6794 times)

Flamekebab

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Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« on: August 21, 2015, 10:27:41 PM »
Disclaimer: I'm still fairly new to this sort of thing and I've only just managed to solder something that wasn't a complete pig's ear. With that in mind let's dive in to what I've been working on in my spare time.

Many years ago I got my grubby meathooks on a book Games Workshop used to publish "How to Make Wargames Terrain". Not the flashy 2004 version mind you - the 1996 version. In all honesty I found it fairly worthless and uninspiring, especially in a time before the kind of tutorials we have access online today. There were a few nuggets of wisdom in there though such as the existence of this tool:

(From the original book)

Now I don't know about you but I'm not good at spending medium amounts of cash on myself. I'll save up for something expensive and buy it, I'll buy the odd small treat for up to about £7.50 but anything above that just feels a bit too much for just me. Well hot wire cutters fire into that price range (plus the cost of 4.5V batteries if one goes for the cheaper battery operated ones).

These days I'm older and I've got a lot of odds and sods lying around. One of these things is an ancient computer power supply. We're talking 140W.

It's on its own though so there's no way to turn it on. The kettle lead is plugged in but without a case button wired into it there's no on switch. Well that is at least easy to fix:


The black leads are all ground. There's only one green wire and grounding it immediately turns on the PSU. Sorted!

Right, then what's next? Well we've got lots of connectors that have both red and yellow wires. The red ones are 5V rails while the yellows are 12V. Oh and before we go on these are DC. The PSU's job is to convert AC input to DC output. 12V DC is, for the most part, safe. Probably unwise to handle it with wet hands, admittedly, but under normal conditions skin resistance prevents 12V being enough of a gradient to be dangerous.

The next component is NiChrome wire. A few metres can be had on eBay for bugger all. I bought the smallest amount I could - a metre of 0.5mm stuff - for £1.50 including postage. Man, making stuff was so much more expensive before eBay.

Ideally the wire for the hot wire cutter needs to be kept under tension. It's fairly stiff stuff but as we all remember from physics classes: metal that heats up expands. Hmm.

So I needed a device that could:
  • Keep the wire under tension even as it expands
  • Have plenty of safe handholds
  • Not melt when if exposed to a little stray heat
  • Take up as little space as possible

Lots of people make these using PVC pipe but I haven't got any that's the right size so that idea fell at the first hurdle. Wood would work though, assuming it was reasonably tough. I took a look in a nearby shed and found an extremely dead deckchair. The canvas had rotted off and it was riddle with woodworm and rot. Luckily some parts of it were still dry and reasonably tough.

A bit of sawing, drilling, and wiring later and I had a pterodactyl!


The rubber band keeps the wire under tension and the rest of the design allows it to be collapsed when not in use. In theory I could also mount a longer wire if I felt like it. Attaching one wire to a 12V rail and the other to a ground rail provided me with something that happily chews through even thick insulation foam:


It actually runs a little hotter than I'd like and so I'm considering testing it on the 5V rail to see whether that makes any difference when cutting simple polystyrene. Its current heat level is fine for thicker foam but it goes through white expanded polystyrene like it's not even there - not so good if one doesn't have a steady hand. A switch between the two might be a good addition if that works.

Flamekebab

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2015, 02:58:38 PM »
So, next project!

I'm not certain if this will do what I need but with any luck it just might. Ah, yes, the task? Well I have microphones. Unfortunately they need to be amplified before being suitable for use with most consumer-grade gear. They don't need anything beefy for this though - what they need is a pre-amp to bring them up to the right level.

The idea being that one could go out to interview someone with a couple of microphones and some cables. These could then be wired to a phone or MP3 player for recording. The gear to conduct the interview would fit easily in something as small as a handbag.

When recording multiple people one tends to find that they speak at different volumes. Not a problem in person (usually...) but to the audio gear they'll sound vastly different. The basic answer to this is going to be keeping the two sound channels separate. A 3.5mm stereo jack will be used for both input and output. Traditionally one would use 1/4" (6.35mm) audio jacks or even XLR plugs (to match the microphones). No dice for this job though as what they're going into is a Läckerol tin I got from Scandinavia. There's room for a 9 volt battery and a bit more. With any luck I'll have the space to get the whole thing to fit!



Pretty small, as you can see. Here's it without most of the parts:


It's going to be tight!

So what's going in side?
Well the plan is for a slightly modified version of this project.


Well I don't know about you but some of those symbols aren't ones I initially recognise (I think they're ANSI symbols) so I did my best to redraw the diagram into something I'd stand a better chance of understanding at a glance:


Hopefully I didn't balls that up in some way. What you can hopefully see is that there's only one potentiometer in the circuit diagram (although there will also be a trimmer replacing that circled 100K resistor). There's two on the tin though...
Yeah... I need to get the circuit to fit twice! Stereo, y'see?

Also not pictured are the two 3.5mm audio jacks that are part of the design. Worst case scenario I could instead wire those to actual wires that hang out of the case but ideally I want it all to be internal. It's not all that many parts, thankfully. The ICs are LM741s that are fairly tiny, a few capacitors and resistors, and the rather small trimmers (potentiometers that aren't expected to change after being set).

So, things that need to be done:
  • Missing parts: 2012 me ordered the parts and missed out the 47K resistors I need. He also ordered linear potentiometers rather than logarithmic ones.
  • Wire. I could really do with a colour other than white!
  • Insulation. I'm not sure if it's required but it might be a good idea to lay down some plastic inside to keep the parts isolated from the case. On the plus side the casing should help filter out RF interference!
  • Knobs. It might be fun to add some cool knobs to the volume control pots.

Flamekebab

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2015, 07:19:04 PM »
Back in 2012 I took apart an old stereo and salvaged some parts. I found a few ICs and some other odds and ends. Amongst them was an IC marked "KA22291" that seems to have been part of the tape deck functionality.

By the looks of the datasheet it's some sort of pre-amp. Interesting. It can do some stuff with recording (which I'm told is more about taking a line level signal and bringing it down to a quiet signal for recording to tape or similar) but those bits can be safely ignored I think.

So I took a look at the circuit diagram for it and found this:


Again, we've got some ANSI stuff going on but with some work I was able to figure out which bits mattered and sketched out my own version that didn't include the irrelevant bits:

Ugly but functional!

I'm still not sure if the 47µF capacitor on pin 11 is for. I might have to add it just to see if it changes anything.

It took a little while but I got it all wired up:


I'm still struggling to test it but from what I can tell it will indeed take a low-level audio signal and turn it into a line level one. If I can get this working properly then I might even use it for my pastille tin device. The reason it would be useful is that it would mean only a single circuit is needed (as this pre-amp chip supports stereo audio).

Jubal

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2015, 01:05:57 PM »
How dangerous is the pterodactyl wire-cutter? As in, if one made it but did something wrong, probability of electrocutions or explosions? It looks pretty neat.
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Flamekebab

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2015, 01:27:50 PM »
Don't touch the wires with wet hands, don't touch the hot wire. Other than that I'm not really sure what can go wrong :)

I've been a bit too busy to experiment with running it at a lower voltage yet but I plan on doing so in the future. In the meantime I've been ordering some more parts to have a go at building a fuzztone effects pedal.

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2015, 10:01:54 PM »
I've now tested the pre-amp and it definitely works. I hooked up a turntable to some headphones and the signal was too low to be audible. Putting the pre-amp in the middle resulted in a quiet but audible signal. Excellent.

I also found a knackered lamp in a skip. I left the lamp but tore the switch off it. Now my power supply doesn't just have a snippet of wire as an on switch!

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2015, 03:16:20 PM »
Something I really enjoy having is a sound board. I've tracked down software to make them digitally but ultimately what I want is a board of buttons that I can assign sounds to.

I hadn't planned on creating such a thing any time soon until the Raspberry Pi Zero was announced a little while ago. It costs next to nothing, it's tiny, and it doesn't have lots of extra guff on it.

Size aside I don't want extra stuff on there because of the power demands it'll create. I want to be able to run this thing off AA batteries and I want it to work. That last bit might sound a bit silly so I'll explain what I mean:

As I understand it AA batteries are nominally 1.5V when new. From the graphs I've seen they rapidly fall below that and then waddle around in 1.3V territory for quite a while before dying around 1.1V.

The Raspberry Pi ostensibly takes 5V but testing has revealed that it'll run as low as 2.95V. It'll go a little lower too but that'd be just fine for my purposes. The batteries would be properly dead by that point anyway.

So that's the first condition met - it'll run off 3 AA batteries. What about working though?
Well this is the complicated bit. The Raspberry Pi Zero doesn't have audio output built in. One can add a USB sound card (and they can be had for a couple of quid) but that's not all that helpful if there's not 5V kicking about to make the device work!

Luckily I finally found a way that should work. It turns out that the original RPis used a sort of work around to get their 3.5mm audio jacks working:

The Raspberry Pi B+ and the Raspberry Pi 2 use a more complicated setup (that would require a fairly cheap extra IC to work) but in general I think I'm off to a good start.

The next step is to get some buttons and wire them up to the GPIO pins. After that we're into programming territory but that should also not be too tricky.

I should probably also take the fairly important step of acquiring a Raspberry Pi Zero too, admittedly...

The next thing I'd like to figure out is how to create PCM sound from analogue sources and pipe that back into the Pi Zero in order to allow the end user to record sound effects and assign them to buttons.

Jubal

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2015, 03:29:29 PM »
Possibly a stupid question, but why run off 3x AAs rather than 1x 5 volt?
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Flamekebab

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2015, 03:30:28 PM »
Possibly a silly answer: what's a 5V battery?

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2015, 04:04:01 PM »
OK, I was just having a brain-splat, I was thinking of the square PP style ones, but they're 9 volts not five.
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Flamekebab

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2015, 04:14:05 PM »
A more serious answer is that AAs are readily available and both one-use and rechargeable cells follow the kind of discharge curve I'm after.


I may build these devices for sale if I can get them working reliably and as such I'd like the end user to be able to use batteries they can easily source anywhere.

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #11 on: January 11, 2016, 03:14:15 AM »
I have no idea when the Raspberry Pi Zero is going to be available again so in the meantime I have other electronics projects I want to get on with. One of them is the creation of a bench supply.


While I was in Sweden my father-in-law (or IBM compatible) let me have a dig around in his vast workshop of electronics and pick out some things. One of the things I came away with was a solder-less prototype board - very handy, I'm told. It uses the kinds of connections we had in the physics labs at school. Banana plugs?


Well I picked up some terminals too and thought it'd be fun to wire up the PSU that I've already been messing with to do something like that.
The only things that have stopped me are an enquiry about the warranty for my soldering iron and the fact that the last week has been a complete write-off due to tonsillitis.


Yuck.
Still, nearly better now!

Flamekebab

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2016, 11:00:54 PM »
Ugh. Failures happen but this was annoying.


The old PC PSU I was converting to a bench supply is dead. It went out with a bang. Luckily the scorch marks are on the inside of its case and not on me.


Talking about that does make it sound like I botched something rather spectacularly but as far as I can tell that's not the case. I'd opened it up and installed connection points for ground, 3.3V, 5V, and 12V. I'd also set it up so a switch could sit in the side. I was about to start soldering that together when I read that one of the powerlines would go active when the PSU was on for an LED. That sounded rather fun so I dug out a red LED and got cracking on soldering a resistor to it. Oddly the resistor I was using was too much for the expected 5V (even though it was what was recommended) but hooking up the little circuit to 12V worked nicely.


So desoldering happened, then a slightly weaker resistor was added. That done I plugged in the power supply (for the umpteenth time that evening) and suddenly there was a little light show with painful musical accompaniment. At that point I'd disassembled and reassembled the unit twenty or thirty times without issue. It's a really small unit from back when PC PSUs were not as expansive as today and so fitting in the connection points was a real exercise in flexibility and patience.


My theory is that the case uses the case itself as a common ground point and one of the jacks I'd added clipped something inside, shorting it.
Either that or I'd just handled it far more than it was designed for in which case better that it die now rather than starting a fire further down the line!


My main complaint is that it waited until after all the jacks (eight of the damn things) were installed (with all the planning, drilling, and grinding that involved) to break. It could have had the decency to break after the second jack!

Jubal

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #13 on: January 12, 2016, 11:12:48 PM »
I don't understand the electronics, but I'm glad you weren't damaged by them!
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Flamekebab

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Re: Electronics, hot wires, and this guy.
« Reply #14 on: January 12, 2016, 11:16:45 PM »
I'm learning as I go! AC is a bit scary so I do my best to stay away from it as much as possible.


The PSU did manage to give me a bit of a jump yesterday and I've no idea why so probably better that it die sooner rather than later!