Historical Sewing Through the Age of Plagues

[dubsartur]

Continued from https://exilian.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7001.msg159305 Tired

Sleeve caps and sleeve fitting are rather tricky for me, too. In bespoke dressmaking I was taught to always add a few centimetres to the sleeve cap on a mockup sleeve and then pin/fit it in while you/the person is wearing the dress/jacket/whatever, so the few centimetres extra allow you to let out some length at the top if needed and provide you with a bit of wiggle room to make it sit right. And once it does, you mark the seam line and transfer that to the final pattern piece.

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Here's what I mean by adding a few centimetres (random sleeve I grabbed from the internet), usually 3-4 at the top of the sleeve and tapering at the sides. Crappy MS Paint picture, but you get the idea.

Then again, this is geared towards modern aesthetics on how a sleeve should fit, it might be vastly different for historical dress. The 18th century for example has a quite different sleeve look in women's dress due to the undergarments: A pair of stays usually will make your torso cone-shaped and draw your shoulders back, all of which impacts the fit, obviously.

If I am unsure whether a sleeve will fit am armhole, I add a wedge on either side of each lengthwise seam in the sleeve. 

I think suits and similar female clothing might not be the best point for a conversation between contemporary tailoring and other styles because most modern clothing has conventional sleeve caps / sleeve heads and armholes / armscyes, its just some formal styles with the very deep sleeve cap which creates problems for arm mobility unless you make other unconventional choices.

German and Austrian news sites tend to be terrible, endless trackers and login walls.  Müller und Sohne's website seems to come from the same school.  Their books would probably be easier to use.

Laying the red satin lining into the lapels with felling stitch.

[The Seamstress]

Nice! What material is it?

[dubsartur]

The black cloth is wool coating that has passed through two people's stashes.  The red silk satin is from Sartor in Prague.

[The Seamstress]

Sartor's cool, such beautiful fabrics! I've never bought anything from them, though. Maybe one day!